US ~ Stopping by a Ghostly Castle: Gimghoul

Gimghoul Castle

I can’t think of a more perfect name for a castle than Gimghoul. The word just sounds eerie and mysterious. And, as it turns out, so is the place.

When researching a trip to Chapel Hill, NC, I unearthed an intriguing legend about Gimghoul Castle. Back in 1883, Peter Dromgoole (again, I’m crazy about the name), an 18-year-old student vanished. The rival for his love supposedly killed him in a duel and then tried to hide and bury his body under a large stone. Strange bloody red splatters appeared on the rock, staining it.

The next day beloved Fanny came looking for Peter, but Dromgoole had disappeared. All that remains is the reddish rock. Some say his ghost haunts the property, or is it Fanny?

Believe what you want; Gimghoul Castle was built on the site of the boulder, near the university campus. Completed in 1926, tax records reveal it is owned by a secret society: none other than The Order of Gimghoul. The fraternity-like group was founded in 1889, based on the legend of Dromgoole and the ideals of medieval times, similar to the Knights of the Round Table.

On my visit to the Tar Heel state, my curiosity was up. I had to find the foreboding estate.

I drove over to Gimghoul Road, a neighborhood street lined with two-story colonial homes and picture-perfect yards looking like they were maintained by gardeners. I stopped a lady trimming her bushes and asked for directions. She told me, “You’re almost there. Keep on going when the road narrows and turns to gravel. The castle will be on your right; you can’t miss it.”

And, sure enough, the street dwindled to a rocky path, bordered by overgrown hedges and ivy. The Norman-looking structure appeared, the top of its round tower shining in the sunlight. Small Rapunzel-like windows dotted the column. Ominous “No Trespassing” signs surrounded the grounds of the brown stone masonry mansion.

Entrance Tower

Instantly, my mind conjured up images of local kids daring one another to ring the doorbell or run around the fortress. I bet you don’t find many trick-or-treating there.

Being by myself, I certainly didn’t want to stir up any ghosts or Gimghoul members. I approached the property’s edge and set my camera on a tripod. As I shot these photos, I noticed a car semi-hidden in the driveway, but no other signs of occupancy.

I returned home more curious than ever and turned up a listing on the International Registry of Castles and another with the NC Historical Society. A prior investigator uncovered the Order’s records in the UNC Wilson Library. Some, interestingly enough, have restricted access. Those materials include a few past membership lists naming prominent students, professors and noted alumni as part of the group. Today, most believe the fraternity initiates ten male juniors a year.

But, keeping mum is what secret societies are all about, and like good mysteries, no one is talking, not even the ghosts.

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This article appeared in AutomotiveTraveler.com

Germany ~ Hirschhorn Knights

A Review of Castle Hotel ~Schloss Hirschhorn in Germany

By Debi Lander

Legend asserts that Friedrich, last Knight of Hirschhorn, died from a curse.

Whether folktale or truth; his order erected a mountaintop stronghold in 1203, adding living quarters, moat, church and town wall over centuries. As guardians, they protected the surrounding countryside through devastating wars. After the plague in 1635, few remained. But their stone structures still stand.

Now as a four-star hotel, the knights’ castle of Hirschhorn, Germany beckons from its forested peak. Below, a village of crimson-roofed buildings lies packed against the quay of the swift Neckar River. The churning waterway swerves through the glen in storybook fashion, disappearing into the distant horizon.

Neckar River

Enter the main fortress, where upstairs, eight guestrooms blossom with red and blue chintz curtains and matching bedspreads. One suite offers an elevated seating area with bow windows overlooking nature’s panorama. Modern bathrooms are surprisingly roomy and an elevator, just big enough for one person and their bags, makes luggage handling easier. Unfortunately, no gallant knights or bellman here.

Room in Schloss Hirschhorn

Hotel guests sit at (what else) round tables on the sun-drenched terrace, listening to the splashing sounds rising from the river. They sip Rhine wine, nibble German pastries and watch the laden barges pass through busy locks.

Meander a musty English garden pathway to 17 additional bedchambers in the Marstall, a renovated old stable. Further down the embankment, dotted by crumbling curtain walls, visitors can explore a 1406 Gothic church. In the cemetery discover some headstones belonging to knights of yore. Only drawback is the steep trek back to the main complex.

Schloss Hirschhorn’s restaurant serves unexpected and memorable delights fit for royalty; delicate flaky fish with gorgeous fresh vegetables. Game is the dining room specialty, when in season. And don’t miss the local Riesling wine, a tasty bargain.

Fact is old Freidrich killed his cousin (Hans of Handschushsheim) in a duel, which provoked his aunt to cast the spell. They say when Friedrich died in 1632, so did the 400-year reign of the Hirschhorn Knights.

But their chivalrous presence lingers in this old castle, on the hill. Spend a knight and don’t worry about curses; Freidrich’s Aunt is long past.

If you go:

Schloss Hirschhorn sits above the town of Hirschhorn, in southwest Germany, just 12 miles from Heidelberg. Guests driving a compact car may brave the winding narrow road. Larger vehicles should take the longer, circuitous route through the park.

Request a room in the main building for a night you won’t forget.

Hotel rates are kind-hearted on a traveler’s bill-of-fare. Double rooms around $150 and singles less than $100.

For further information: www.schlosshotel-hirschhorn.de

A shorter version of this article appeared in Travel Post Monthly, October 2007.

England – A Day and a Knight at Alnwick Castle

Alnwick Castle

A Day and a Knight at Alnwick Castle

By Debi Lander

Peering skyward I see soldiers standing guard atop towers and turrets. Then I realize they are merely stone figures that fool the eye or play, as my daughter Laura calls it, “a medieval Home Alone trick.” This ploy is so effective, I laugh at the simplicity and myself. Still, ones imagination conjures images of terrifying battles over ramparts, archers with crossbows and sentries on battlements. I feel I’m cast in a tale of King Arthur, as I enter the grounds of 700-year-old Alnwick Castle and Gardens in Northumberland, England.

Stone Knight

My husband joins us and we cross the drawbridge of this ancient motte and bailey fortress. We see young ones enroll in The Knights School, taught in the old Training Yard. My daughter is too old, at fourteen, and I can sense her disappointment. In fact, I feel it, too. The little recruits dress in clothes of the time, play games, brave the garderobe (medieval toilet), fire a trebuchet (catapult), learn the art of swordsmanship and enjoy the joust. If they perform with courage and concentration, they progress from page to squire to knight and are dubbed with a noble title. Proud parents and grandparents alike watch the antics, shooting enough photos to fill the entire memory card in their digital camera.

The Knights School debuted on St. George’s Day, in March 2005, honoring the legendary hero who slew a menacing dragon. Clothed in his regal robe, the twelfth Duke of Northumberland opened the first interactive educational exhibition of its kind in Britain. He announced, ” many places try to describe life in medieval England, but we have taken it one step further by allowing the children to discover for themselves what life was really like.” Eight-year-old Jonathan Stevenson added,” The best bit is the sword fighting,” but, when questioned, didn’t have any positive comments about the smelly garderobe. He merely pinched his fingers over his nose. There’s no doubt, however, that memories of this day etch into the youngsters brains.

While my temperamental teen daughter usually prefers to “hang” with friends, Alnwick captivates her, making this a true family outing. We discuss the Scottish Border Wars she has studied in history class, and suddenly, the lessons make sense. She understands and can actually touch and feel the perilous history of this place. “Eureka,” I think to myself, “she’s got it.” Though camouflaged, my parental reward for traveling with a teen presents itself; she is learning and having fun. Like three musketeers, we descend the stairs to the terror and dank, depressing closeness that a confinement in the dungeon brings. And …she, especially, likes it.

Cannons in the Yard

We wander on through the upper and lower baileys and climb on artillery. Screams of delight pierce the air and we follow the sound to a crowd surrounding two Potter characters: Professor Dumbledore, Hogswarts Headmasters and Hagrid, Keeper of the Keys. Many little ones gaze up at seven-foot Hagrid in awe and ask for an autograph. These friendly fellows greet everyone in the same courtyards where Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry holds class. Sadly, unlike Harry, we are mere muggles and can only dream of flying to catch the golden orb in a game of quidditch. My family feels like extras on the movie set, awaiting our costumes and call.

Passing into the keep or castle chambers overwhelms us. While Alnwick’s exterior proclaims a feeling of strength, venturing inside soothes the soul. The Earls and Dukes of the Percy Family, owners since 1309, financed extensive renovations and restorations to achieve the “fit for a king” style. No wonder Alnwick is called the Windsor of the North.

Inner Courtyard

We tour guard chambers hung with ancient arms and armor, the chapel with Aubusson tapestries and palace-like rooms with original silk wall coverings, sculpted marble fireplaces and masterpieces acquired over centuries. Paintings include Titian, Van Dyke and Canalettlos, as well as furniture once belonging to Louis XIV of France. This ducal house, second largest inhabited castle in England, offers unique delights for all ages.

Getting a bit weary, we cross over the stonewalls to the garden, newly renovated with fountains, floral lighting and topiary extravagance. The current Duchess is the spearheading the massive reconstruction project spending millions of her personal fortune.

The landscape, similar to Versailles, highlights the Grand Cascade, an elevated water garden of immense proportion. Others play and get wet in the jets or collect water in buckets and splash. Grandparents meander into the fragrant Ornamental, Rose, Serpent and Quiet Gardens with fine garden architecture. The Poison Garden, recently opened amid controversy for growing cannabis and coca plants, features docents telling gruesome stories about nasty plants. Kids look out for secret places to hide in the nooks and crannies of the Woodland Walk. The Labyrinth, a bamboo maze of twisting paths rustles as they explore, holds youngsters captive for hours.

On our way back to the parking lot, we stop at the amazing treehouse, grander than the Swiss Family Robinson’s. This immense structure, rather Lord of The Rings style with an Ewok Village accent, is one of the largest wooden treehouses in the world. Nearly four million dollars were spent constructing six natural “rooms” with connecting aerial walkways and rope bridges. We order lunch and relax our tired feet while little ones frolic in the playground below.

Reflecting back on our vacation, we certainly covered a lot of territory. We toured Windsor Castle with it’s royal heritage, traveled to Warwick Castle, considered by some as the best Medieval Castle in England, and visited The Tower of London with it’s royal jewels, Bloody Tower and Traitor’s Gate but … our favorite castle was Alnwick in Northumbria. A sense of fantasy prevails over this little kingdom, returning visitors to a childlike state. Breaking out of the adult world- away from political, social and economic problems- is a good but rare thing. This magical feeling of freedom and abandonment, created by just being within the walls of Alnwick Castle, only becomes richer when shared with your entire family. I can’t wait to return with my two grandchildren.

Path to Castle

If you go:

Alnwick (pronounced “Annick”) Castle is approximately one hour south of Edinburgh or a 45-minute drive from Newcastle-on-Tyne, off the A1. The castle is open daily from April to October.

Admission prices are £ 8.50 per adult, £ 3.50 per child and £ 22.00 for families.

For further information visit http://www.alnwickcastle.com/.

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