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The Bear Facts on the Great Smoky Mountains National Park

June 18, 2009 by Debi Lander · Leave a Comment 

Black Bear

A Black Bear in Smoky Mountain National Park

By golly, I admit I’m not a country girl. Can’t name the Country Music Singer of the Year, don’t follow NASCAR and camping makes me itch. You won’t be able to kiss my grits because I don’t eat any, or fried okra or hush puppies. Nonetheless, I had a dang good time in Sevierville, birth place of Dolly Parton, and home of the Smoky Mountains .

I recently flew to Knoxville, Tennessee, and then drove to the foothills of the Smokies. I found Sevierville to be a right nice place, even if the name sounds a bit harsh. This is a town where you can go hog wild visiting all the attractions.

Smoky Mountains

A View within The Great Smoky Mountain National Park

But the mountains are what called to me. I fell in love with the “Land of Blue Smoke,” as the Cherokee called their native homeland. What appears as wispy smoke from a fire rises out of the peaks and valleys. The enormous amount of water in the area and the respiration of the trees causes this mystical natural phenomenon.

The Smokies are also famous for bears and, of course, I was hoping to see one. Alas, I did not, that being my only disappointment.

Waterfalls in the stream

Flowing water in Great Smoky Mountain National Park

I thought I’d give you a little history on the park and add a few interesting facts at the end. Future blogs will explore the attractions, activities and restaurants in the Sevierville and Pigeon Forge area.

A Brief History of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park

The Smokies were formed 200-300 million years ago. That makes them very, very old!

Sometime not that far back, Native Americans, the Cherokee, settled in South. However, between 1838 and 1839, the government rounded them up and forced all the Cherokee from their homes. In total 17,000 were sent to a reservation, what’s now Oklahoma, but sadly, many died along the way. That saga is known as the Trail of Tears.

After the Cherokee left, the logging companies moved in and began cutting the forests. Concerned US citizens wanted to protect the natural beauty but the government was not allowed to buy land for national park use. Private money had to be raised to purchase the acreage.

In the late 1920s, the Tennessee and North Carolina Legislatures appropriated $2 million each for land purchases. Additional funds were raised by individuals, groups, and even school children who pledged their pennies. By 1928, a total of $5 million had been collected. Trouble was the cost of the land had now doubled. The Laura Spellman Rockefeller Memorial Fund came to the rescue. They donated an additional $5 million, stipulating that the park remain free and open to the public.

Rural mountain families or hillbillies, as they were often called, had also built cabins in the Smokies and did not want to leave. Eventually, they too, were forced out. Many remained in the Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge area but struggled to eke out a meager existence.

Between 1933 and 1942 the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), an agency created during the Depression to provide work and wages for the unemployed, built a number of the currently used rails, campgrounds, beautiful stone bridges and buildings.

The park was dedicated by President Franklin Roosevelt in October, 1934. This year makes the 75th anniversary, as good a reason as any to visit.

The Smokies and Sevierville welcome all with Southern hospitality. You’ll find the landscape rises in scenic splendor and the people are down-home friendly. I heartily recommend you mosey on over.

Mimi in the Mountains

Debi in the Smokies of Tennessee

Now in case you don’t know much about the wildlife or offerings in Great National Smoky Mountains (I sure didn’t before I went), I’m leaving you with the bear facts:

  • The Great Smoky Mountains are among the oldest mountains in the world, formed perhaps 200-300 million years ago
  • Entrance to Great Smoky Mountains National Park is free. The park is one of the only major national parks that does not charge an entrance fee.
  • There are over 800 miles of maintained hiking trails.
  • 1,500 bears live in the park. This equals a population density of approximately two bears per square mile.
  • In the Smokies, the average annual rainfall varies from approximately 55 inches in the valleys to over 85 inches on some peaks-more than anywhere else in the country except the Pacific Northwest. Waterfalls can be found on nearly every stream and river in the park
  • Elevations range from 800 feet to 6,643 feet.
  • Temperatures differ about 20 degrees F from base to summit.
  • Auto touring is the most popular way to see the park There are 384 miles of road to choose from in the Smokies.
  • Seventy eight historic structures, including grist mills, churches, schools, barns, and the homes of early settlers, preserve Southern Appalachian mountain heritage in the park.
  • Fishing, biking and horseback riding are permitted in certain areas only.
  • Biological diversity is the hallmark of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. No other area of equal size matches the park’s amazing variety of plants, animals, and invertebrates. Did you know?
  • Over 10,000 species have been discovered in the National Park; Scientists believe there are over 90,000 more to be discovered
  • 100 species of native trees (more than any other North American national park)
  • 1,400 flowering plant species
  • 4,000+ non-flowering plants
  • 200+ species of birds
  • 66 types of mammals
  • 50 native fish species
  • 39 varieties of reptiles
  • 43 species of amphibians

And here’s the kicker, the Great Smokies have lungless salamanders and fireflies that synchronize their flashing lights. Pretty daggum amazing.

A Wake-Up Call: The Re-Enactment of the Battle of Lexington

April 29, 2009 by Debi Lander · Leave a Comment 

lexington-battle-5x3.jpg

Redcoats fire their muskets

One lantern in Old North Church meant that the British were marching on land.  Paul Revere galloped on horseback from Boston to Lexington. He spread the alarm, awakening every house along the road.

I was warned to awaken by the alarm on my cell phone.  I knew, “The British were coming, get down to the town green.”  And by the time I arrived at 5:00 AM, a huge crowd had gathered.

In Massachusetts, The Battle of Lexington is re-enacted yearly on Patriot’s Day, on the very ground were it first took place in 1775.  From the actions on that field the Revolutionary War began.

Today locals participate in costume, some taking on the role of  anarchists or members of the British regiment .  Many children also dress in colonial garb. They stay with their mothers, running onto the battle field after the conflict to tend the wounded, while other young lads beat drums in the corps.

The battle has been staged for 38 years to honor those who fought for our freedom. The scene is solemn, the crowd is hushed and the participants act with pride. The pre-dawn ceremonies begin with an announcer recounting the story of April 19, 1775, the fateful day of “the shot heard round the world .”

Lexington_battle-1

The British Regiment

The actual fight was very brief; the colonists were confused and lacked leadership.  The British regiment marched in unison, their lobster red coats piercing the early morning fog.

No one knows who fired the first shot, but after it was heard, mayhem broke out on the green and the local militia retreated.  They are defeated in the skirmish, fell back and regrouped.

In 1775, many colonists traveled to nearby Concord to join other rebels. There they surprised and over powered the British. All day, they attacked the troops along what is now called Battle Road .

As I watched from the back of the crowd, the young children around me gasped at the face to face combat and rifle smoke.  The teens were drawn into eye witnessing living history.  But, I was awestruck by the bravery of the fighting men.  The courage and bravado these first Americans showed was immense; they truly were passionate in their beliefs.

The crowd of thousands, present at the early hour, bespoke of their reverence for the day.  I viewed the event as a wake up call, one that left me with a clearer understanding of Patriot’s Day and the debt we owe our forefathers.

The Boston area offers a variety of activities on this holiday weekend:  the annual Boston marathon, Red Sox games, the re-enactment of Paul Revere’s ride and the battles at Lexington and Concord .  However, the small town of Lexington (population 30,000) deserves to be especially proud of the dignity preserved during their event.  The re-enactment at dawn runs on time, remaining faithful to history.   I was humbled and honored to stand on sacred ground.

Meeting the volunteer actors

Meeting the volunteer actors after the battle

George Washington’s Mount Vernon Ties Technology to Tradition

February 16, 2009 by Debi Lander · Leave a Comment 

Mount Vernon

George Washington's home--Mount Vernon

I visited Mount Vernon shortly after new museums opened in 2007 and shared this story in Chesapeake Family Magazine.  I still love the old house and grounds, but believe the addition of  state-of-the- art technology in the museums makes a visit or return mandatory.

New Museums: Grand Old House

George Washington sleeps in his tomb at Mount Vernon, as he has for the past 210 years. However, most Americans believe he slept in every city, state, and tavern up and down the east coast during his 67 years of life. Confusing myths grow like vines on a forgotten gravestone, intertwined with few facts about the real George.

To awaken national interest and debunk untrue stories, the Mount Vernon Ladies Association spearheaded a $100 million campaign. They built new educational centers and a museum mostly underground — leaving the original, tranquil grounds undisturbed. The decade-long project was completed two years ago — in time to celebrate GW's 275th birthday.

Visitors discover rarely seen glimpses of our first president, through the action-adventure move, "We Fight to be Free," featured in the Ford Orientation Center . Young Washington, a British officer under General Braddock, encounters a violent attack during the French and Indian War. Braddock is mortally wounded, so GW takes charge of the regiment, though, in this battle they are defeated.

In addition, guests may be surprised to learn that as a plantation owner, George experimented with crop rotation, ran a lucrative fishery and owned the largest whiskey distillery in the colonies.

Another exhibit drawing attention is an intricately crafted dollhouse, an exact one-twelfth replica of the mansion. Fifty miniaturists spend over five years creating flickering candle lights and fireplaces that glow, needlepoint rugs, hand-painted china and bedrooms prepared for guests (apparently a common practice for the Washingtons, as they had 637 overnight visitors one year).

Some choose to tour the historic estate and gardens, hike to the tomb or visit (April- October) the working Pioneer Farm. Others proceed directly to the Reynolds Education Center and Museum, featuring state-of-the-art galleries, interactive displays and five additional theaters.

The exhibits teach through an osmosis-like process, slipping knowledge into the minds of children and teens without their notice. The atmosphere is a pleasing new-age design: a combination of a natural history museum with Disney-type animated motion, wax figures Madame Tussard would envy, a theater in the round and computer games. Despite all the gadgetry, the presentation retains a reverence for the genteel hero, without sugar coating his lifestyle or his era.

My teenage daughter raved about the Revolutionary War film, complete with seats that rumble during cannon fire and falling snowflakes during scenes re-enacting the crossing of the Delaware.

Toddlers explore the hands-on history room, bursting with child-sized colonial costumes, a push-button mural that produces the sound farm animals and 18-th century toys.

I overheard a teenage girl joke that a forensically age-reversed wax replica of nineteen-year-old George liked "sorta hot." A father and son jumped with fright when a surprising cough arose from a lifelike sleeping soldier, encamped at a reconstruction of Valley Forge.

Most tourists seem fascinated by the famous false teeth, encased similar to the crown jewels' display in London. The dentures aren't wood, but human and animal teeth sunk into a metal contraption. No wonder the picture on the dollar bill depicts a puffy-faced George.

The Reynolds Museum, another 6,000 square-foot complex, houses over 500 Washington artifacts including a portrait gallery, Martha's table set for entertaining, a war room full of military memorabilia, jewelry displays and original documents. History buffs savor the previously unseen treasures.

By George, anyone wishing to learn about Washington and our country's past can triumph at Mount Vernon . The place isn't asleep; it's awake with new energy and dancing (not on Washington's grave), but under a slumbering old homestead.

If you go:

Mount Vernon is located in Virginia, just 16 miles from downtown Washington, DC. The estate is open 365 days a year and includes on-site dining options. Usual admission fees are $15 for adults, Seniors are $14, youth ages 6-11 are $7 and children 5 and under are free.

The Distillery is open from April to October.

Visit www.mountvernon.org for additional information.

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