Mimi’s Virtual Angels and Demons Blog Tour continues: Santa Maria del Popolo
May 6, 2009 by Debi Lander · Leave a Comment
Day 1- Santa Maria del Popolo and the Chigi Chapel
Porta del Popolo
Follow the path of the Illuminati in this virtual tour of sites depicted in Dan Brown ‘s book, Angels & Demons.
In ancient times, travelers arrived to Rome on the Via Flaminia, a road dating back to 220 BC. We will start there as well–at the northern gate, now called the Porta del Popolo.
Egyptian Obelisk
The Piazza, a large open public square, lies inside the gate, centered by an Egyptian obelisk. The obelisk is the second oldest and one of the tallest in Rome (118 feet including its plinth). The column was brought to Rome in 10 BC by order of Augustus and originally set up in the Circus Maximus. Pope Sixtus V had it re-erected in the Piazza del Popolo in 1589, as part of his urban plan. In 1818, fountains in the form of Egyptian-style lions were added around the base of the obelisk.
Now, imagine we are standing at the fountain and slowly turning around. We see twin churches to the south, another church near the gate, three roads fanning outward and a plethora of symbolism all around. Clues of Illuminati significance from the Dan Brown story can be seen on the gate. Look for the pyramid of rocks with a star shining above (the light), and also at the top of the obelisk.
Twin Churches in Piazza Popolo
The Twin churches of Santa Maria dei Miracoli (1681) and Santa Maria in Montesanto (1679), were begun by Carlo Rainaldi and completed by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. The churches are not true copies, but close enough to create symmetrical balance, something that was important to Bernini, whose works feature prominently in the book.
Lead characters Professor Langdon and Vittoria Vetra sneak into the ancient church of Santa Maria del Popolo,the church near the gate. While inside they make their the first major discovery.
Santa Maria del Popolo
Before we enter, take a moment to study the church exterior which was modified by (guess who) Bernini. The stone and stucco facade is simple, with a small central door and one circular window on the upper level. From the rather plain appearance on the outside, you would not expect to find the graceful, intricate splendor of the interior. Walk in and find pink marble columns, golden inlay, statues, bas reliefs and paintings filling every niche.
The church’s history dates back to 1099, beginning when Pope Paschal II built a chapel over a tomb of the Domitia family. Tradition says the site was haunted by Nero’s ghost or demons in the form of black crows; therefore the pope chopped down the tree sheltering the crows and built a church in its place. The name del Popolo (“of the people”) probably derives from the source of the funds-the people of Rome, but some say it comes from the Latin word populus, meaning “poplar” and referring to a tree located nearby. I prefer the tree story.
Either way, the chapel became a church in the 13th century and was given to the Augustinians, a monastic order, who still oversee it. When you enter your eyes are drawn up by the numerous arches and domes in the ceiling. Angels seem to hover about the delicately embossed walls. To me the church feels serene but also displays a sense of wealth and power.
Interior of the Chigi Chapel
Recessed along each side of the magnificent nave are eight chapels. The Chigi Chapel, named after the prosperous banker Agostini Chigi who funded construction, was designed by Raphael, a famous artist commonly known by his first name.
In the novel, Langdon and Vittoria are searching for Santi’s earthly tomb. They discover that Raphael was also an architect and the son of Giovanni Santi. Thus, Raphael Santi designed the space; so here is where they find what’s hidden in Santi’s earthly tomb.
Beyond the symbolic pyramids on the tombs of the Chigi brothers and astrological signs, the chapel radiates awesome beauty. Above, a cupola is decorated with a mosaic also designed by Raphael: Creation of the World. The inspiration came from Michelangelo‘s work in the Sistine Chapel. (Raphael and Michelangelo both lived and worked in Rome at the same time, sometimes competing against each other.)
The Demon's Hole
The chapel walls are chestnut marble and gradually curve to form the central altar. On either side, two white marble statues dominate their alcoves. The decorative marble floor includes the signs of the zodiac leading to the central “demon’s hole” covered by an ornate circular inlay. The design is of a collapsed, angular skeleton bearing a shield emblazoned with Illuminati symbols. Below the skeleton rests a tomb, the demon’s hole. This centerpiece seems incongruous with the otherwise sedate surroundings.
Finally, but not to be missed within this fantastic building, but not mentioned in the book, is the Cerasi Chapel. That sanctuary boasts two priceless paintings by Caravaggio. Pause to study his Crucifixion of St Peter, as the art will become important as our Angels & Demons hunt continues… 
Below is an exquisite video of the church along with lovely vocals, thanks to rododoro15 on YouTube.
Tour of Santa Maria del Popolo (click this link to see video)
Mimi (Debi Lander) did not, nor is she now, receiving any compensation from Dan Brown, Sony Pictures or the Angels & Demons tour company. She paid her own travels and tour expenses.
Images by Debi Lander or courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.
Italian Earthquake hits L’aguila and the Church of Santa Maria de Collemaggio
April 6, 2009 by Debi Lander · 1 Comment
View from an Italian hillside
I was shocked and saddened to hear about the 6.3-magnitude earthquake that struck Italy last night. While I’ve never been to the town of L’aquila, I spent some time in the area about a year ago.
A traveler gains serendipitous knowledge of a place just by visiting. When we open our hearts, we gain an understanding of the people and their culture. Because I am able recall trip memories, I can visualize an Italian hill town, feel a connection and the tragedy becomes more profound.
Italians live in tight communities; they know their neighbors, they chit-chat on the streets. Young and old sit on the front steps or the benches by the town fountain. They sip coffee together or meet in the market. They love their children, family and religion.
Santa Maria di Collemaggio
Lamentably, the 13th century church of Santa Maria di Collemaggio, near the city gates of L’Aquila, was severely damaged. Pope Celestine V was crowned there in 1294. Just think– that date was two hundred years before Columbus set sail to discover what is now North America. This Pope was also buried in the crypt. And, by the way, an interesting fact –he was the only pontiff ever to resign.
Italian Men discussing the day
I’m sorrowful about the loss, but of course buildings can be rebuilt. The lives that were lost (275 dead, 1,500 injured) are gone forever. My heartfelt prayers are with the people who live in or near this historic city.
How Romantic “ Springtime in Italy: A Classic Car Tour
February 13, 2009 by Debi Lander · 2 Comments
The hillside town of Assisi in Italy
If Valentine’s Day has you thinking of romance, how about springtime in Italy? I adore Italy, a country oozing with love and sauced with spirit. Oh, how I wish I could go. However, I’ve got two new grandbabies coming in the next two months. I’ll be busy helping out in Baltimore and Boston, not to mention snuggling those tiny bundles.
But…if I were planning a trip, I’d take this driving tour . It starts in classical Rome, the Eternal City, moving on to Abruzzo in Umbria, a base for daily explorations of centuries old hilltop towns and pastoral countryside. Even includes a day-trip to that peaceful hamlet of Assisi, home of St Francis and his Basilica with the famous frescos by Giotto .
Then the small group will explore Tuscan villas, vineyards and castles. They visit Siena and Florence, Renaissance cities housing priceless art museums and magnificent churches with ceilings begging you to lie down on the pew, for a better view. I could never have enough time in Tuscany.
Holding up the Leaning Tower of Pisa
And what’s a trip to Italy without the iconic Leaning Tower of Pisa, where everyone must take a photo like this for laughs. Make sure to visit the fascinating Duomo and Baptistery, as well, keeping in mind that these building were started around 1170.
Finally return to Rome, toss your coins in the Trevi fountain, then arrivederci.
What’s truly special about this trip is that you will be driving a classic Italian roadster, like an Alfa Romeo . I know I’d feel like punching the gas pedal, pretending I’m in a chase scene of a Bond movie, roaring up and down the country roads.
My colleague, Rich Truesdell, of AutomotiveTraveler.com, has put together one heck of a tour. Everything is primo, as smooth as fine wine or should it be Corinthian leather?
Visit this link for more information on the Springtime Classic Car Tour in Italy, and be prepared to drool over the itinerary. It’s better than a home-cooked meal straight from Rosa’s kitchen. Manga, manga!
